Pink-yellow fruit-hearts of sweet cherry Homestead yellow, filled with delicate sweet and sour flesh, open the fruit and berry season. These trees are characterized by a rich harvest and have a number of other features that must be considered when growing them.
The history of the creation of a variety of sweet cherries
Home sweet yellow was obtained in the 90s of the last century by employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of Genetics and Selection of Fruit Plants named after I.V. Michurina. Zoned the plant in 1998 in the Central Black Earth region. Parent varieties are Leningrad Red and Golden Loshitskaya.
It is recommended to grow this sweet cherry in the following areas:
- Belgorod;
- Voronezh;
- Kursk;
- Lipetsk;
- Oryol;
- Tambov.
The variety is also successfully cultivated in Ukraine.
Description and characteristics of cherries
Trees grow quickly, if you miss the formation time, they can stretch up to 4 m. The crown is spherical, well leafy, has a sparse tier branching.
The leaf blade is large and concave, round-conical in shape, its edge is serrate. Large flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3 pieces.
The fruits are rounded: height - 2 cm, diameter - 2.1 cm. The weight of one berry is 5.5 g. The integumentary color is yellow, the surface of the fruit is smooth. The pulp is juicy, slightly crispy, with a pleasant sweet taste and sourness. The juice is colorless. The bone is oval; it occupies 8.5% of the total weight of the berry; it is easily separated. The fruits are resistant to cracking in the rain.
The variety is early ripe, berries are harvested in June. Cherry Yellowback favorably differs from other varieties by self-fertility, expressed by the resistance of wood, shoots and buds to frost. Flower buds are also characterized by high resistance to spring frost. All this leads to a significant yield of varieties.
This cherry has a small drawback: it is not a quick-growing tree. The first berries can only wait 6 years after planting. But then inevitably there are problems with the implementation of a plentiful harvest. Even in the case of timely collection, it cannot be fully preserved, since delicate berries cannot be transported or preserved. They are intended solely for table consumption.
Video: Cherry Yellow Backyard
Planting sweet Cottage Yellow
For these trees, the most illuminated areas are chosen, protected from piercing northerly winds by buildings. It is important that the groundwater lies deeper than 2-2.5 m from the surface of the earth. The distance from neighboring trees should be no closer than 3-4 m.
At one time, greed played an unkind joke on the formation of my site. Without thinking that the graceful, fragile seedlings of cherries and plums will soon grow into tall handsome men, I planted excellent varieties at a distance of 1.5-2 m. But now you have to dig young trees through one with a large lump of earth and hand them out to friends. The expenditures of energy and strength are immeasurably greater, and the hope that they will take root in a new place is very illusory.
Seedlings are purchased in large garden centers from trusted suppliers. They should be one or two year old, with live kidneys and a developed healthy root system. Preference should be given to seedlings with a closed root system (in containers). They are more convenient to transport, they are less injured and dry out, and they are also easier to plant.
To plant a seedling with an open root system:
- Dig a hole 40-50 cm deep, 80 cm in diameter. The upper fertile layer is collected separately, the lower layers with clay are separated and removed from the site.
- Limestone gravel is poured at the bottom of the pit for drainage and deoxidation of the soil.
- If the soil acidity at the site is very high, 3-5 kg of dolomite flour is added to one landing pit, thoroughly mixed with the topsoil and compost or humus in equal amounts.
- Part of the soil mixture is poured with a slide, a tree is placed on it, carefully spreading the roots.
- They dig a landing stake from the south side of the trunk and tie a tree to it with twine.
- Add the rest of the soil.
- They trample the earth so that there are no voids, form the sides of the irrigation hole. The root neck of the seedling should rise 5-6 cm above the soil level.
- Abundantly water the hole, pouring at least 2-3 buckets of water.
- When the water is absorbed, the trunk area is mulched with humus or freshly cut grass so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly.
Cherry in containers is even easier to plant. The pit is prepared in a similar way, after which:
- A soil mixture consisting of dolomite flour, soil and humus is poured onto the rubble, approximately to a height of 15-20 cm.
- Then, a container with a seedling is placed in the center of the pit to determine the height of the neck. If necessary, soil is sprinkled. The sapling with the container remains in the center of the pit, and soil is poured around, slightly compacted.
- Then they gently pull over the edges of the container, pull it out, take out the seedling without damaging the coma, and lower it into the hole left after the container. Damage to the roots with such a planting is minimal.
All other actions for fixing the peg, watering, etc. are similar. Additional mineral fertilizers are not required, as organic additives provide nutrition.
Features of growing varieties and subtleties of care
Immediately after planting, the central shoot is cut off, leaving a stambum 60-65 cm high. In subsequent years, annual growth is shortened by a third and shoots growing inside are removed. Support the tier type of crown formation with height restriction.
If you fill the planting pit with fertilizers (for example, superphosphate and wood ash), then in the next 2 years the trees will not need additional fertilizing.
Watering is carried out as the soil coma dries up. Water is most intensively introduced during flowering and ovary formation. You should also saturate trees abundantly with moisture after harvesting and before the winter dormant period. This time usually falls in mid-October, about a month before the onset of cold weather.
In general, this variety is hardy, but in order to protect plants from frost and sunburn, it is recommended to whitewash trunks and skeletal shoots in late autumn and repeat treatment in early spring.
Diseases and Pests
The sweet cherry cultivar is highly resistant to diseases and pests. It does not require special measures of prevention and treatment, does not need pollinators, therefore it is recommended for cultivation in a private household. The main problem in cultivating this variety is the inability to fully realize the resulting crop. If the tree is not formed correctly, limiting its growth, then soon it will be impossible to get the berries. So they will become prey for the birds. Do not cover the high crown with a net.
There are drinking bowls in my garden. For some reason, it was previously thought that birds peck berries to quench their thirst. But observations suggest that even if there are drinkers on the plot, feathered robbers prefer sweet berries. It is probably worth leaving some of the berries to sparrows and tits, hoping that then the lured birds after the cherry will turn their eyes to insect pests.
Reviews
... Household - medium early, very melting, tender flesh. Disadvantages - a very large harvest from a tree, non-transportable ...
Sergey
//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?p=245084
... As for frosts in spring, later varieties can easily fall under frosts, it doesn’t depend on us, Mother Nature manages this, the main thing is that you have mild winters, and you can also successfully cultivate Homesteads in the north of the country. The only minus of the Homestead is tall, but you can fight with pruning, but also non-transportability, because its flesh is tender and juicy.
cherry
//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?p=245084
I’ll write a little about my 5 young cherries of different varieties. 3-4 year olds are all. Every year they freeze above the snow level of 60-70 cm. Although some of the kidneys remain alive and above the level. This year I will cover completely covering in high arches. I'll try what it gives. 2 out of 5 cherries bloomed in spring. There were few flowers. On one piece 50 (Leningradskaya black). On the other (Iput) pieces 10. They bloomed a weekly difference, but since the flowering lasts 10 days, there were days when the flowering crossed and it became possible to take a cotton bud and try to work as a bee ... 3-4 flowers seemed to start to fill in mass, but very quickly fell off too ... I will not draw conclusions. I would like to believe in such a reason for failure - that just both cherries are still young in order to proclaim even several berries. I don’t understand other reasons ... And, I hope, the remaining 3 bushes will join the flowering - Homestead yellow, Early pink and Gift to the Eagle ...
Andrey S.
//forum.vinograd7.ru/viewtopic.php?p=461407
Here is my homestead ... It bears fruit almost annually, considering that we have the north, I think that it will feel great in other regions as well. The fruits are very strong, large, sweet, a small stone. After collection, they can be stored in the refrigerator for quite some time. Matures late enough. One thing, but the birds love her so much!
Svetlana
//forum.cvetnichki.com.ua/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=682
If you adhere to the recommendations of the originator for the region of cultivation, the cultivar Cherry yellow, without causing much trouble, will present with early berries and decorate the garden.