Delicate, tasty and healthy zucchini has become an indispensable product for all who lead a healthy lifestyle. Many gardeners became interested in this vegetable, and even despite the fact that zucchini is very thermophilic, they grow it in areas with difficult climatic conditions. Zucchini has very few requirements - enough moisture and heat. And the productivity of a small bush can exceed any expectations.
Description of Zucchini
We learned about zucchini relatively recently - in the 80s. At first, this vegetable with an unusual name caused suspicion, but having tasted this most delicate vegetable, gardeners quickly found the sunniest beds for it.
Zucchini is a type of squash. Its name - zucchini, comes from the diminutive zucca, which in Italian means pumpkin. And the people call this vegetable "Italian zucchini."
Thanks to the delicate taste of zucchini quickly won fans
Zucchini is an annual plant. Has a compact bush, without branching. That is why zucchini is conveniently grown in small areas, since it takes up little space. The leaves are raised upwards; they do not creep on the ground. They look decorative - a large dissected leaf blade has a wrinkled surface and is sometimes covered with a silver mesh pattern. On the stems and petioles pubescence is practically absent. The color of the leaves is green, deep and juicy. Zucchini flowers are large, painted in a bright yellow-orange color, which attracts many pollinating insects.
Zucchini plant - a small bush that is convenient to grow in any sunny corner of the garden
The fruit is oblong, but there are varieties with rounded shapes. The optimal size for collecting is 10-15 cm, the maximum length that zucchini reaches is 20-25 cm. The peel is mainly painted in dark green or saturated yellow-golden colors. The surface of the fruit can be decorated with a variety of strokes, spots and stripes. The pulp is juicy, firm, crispy, but very tender.
Zucchini fruits are very similar to zucchini, but smaller
Zucchini, without a doubt, is a universal vegetable. It is fried, steamed, marinated, stewed, stuffed - that is, subjected to all types of culinary processing. Young fruits are eaten raw when added to vitamin salads (you don’t even need to peel the skin, before it is tender). Containing only 21 kcal zucchini in 100 g, it is an excellent dietary product that is indispensable for people seeking to get slim forms.
In many cuisines of the world even the flowers of Italian zucchini are consumed. They are stuffed with soft cheese, shrimp minced, fried in batter.
Stuffed zucchini flowers - this is not even a dish, but a work of culinary art
A wonderful vegetable is also used in cosmetology. Masks are prepared from the pulp, which soothe, tone, moisturize and soften the skin of the face. Moreover, in combination with various ingredients, zucchini is suitable for any skin.
Zucchini - extremely useful. In chemical composition, it is close to zucchini, but unlike it, the substances contained in zucchini are absorbed more easily by our body. You can eat a vegetable for everyone - both old and young.
Nutrients in zucchini - table
| Substances | 100 g content |
| Squirrels | 2.71 g |
| Carbohydrates | 3.11 g |
| Alimentary fiber | 1.1 g |
| Fats | 0.4 g |
The mineral composition should highlight a high content of potassium, as well as phosphorus and magnesium. Among the vitamins, A and C are leading. In addition to them, the vegetable contains vitamin B6 and useful elements:
- iron;
- calcium;
- thiamine;
- zinc;
- sodium.
Due to the diverse content of trace elements and vitamins, zucchini is an indispensable product for healing the body, preventing, treating and improving the condition of various diseases. This healthy vegetable helps:
- activate digestion processes;
- improve secretory and motor function of the intestines and stomach;
- remove toxins and excess water from the body;
- relieve the condition with gout, nephritis, urolithiasis, chronic pyelonephritis and metabolic disorders in the body;
- improve vision and condition of teeth, hair, skin integument.
The vegetable is useful for people suffering from:
- hypertension
- atherosclerosis, hepatitis;
- cholecystitis;
- gallstone disease;
- cardiovascular disease;
- duodenal ulcers;
- anemia.
Perhaps the only contraindication, in addition to individual intolerance, is kidney disease, in which the elimination of potassium from the body is impaired.
The beneficial substances found in zucchini are absorbed very quickly and this makes the vegetable healthy
How zucchini differs from zucchini
Despite the resemblance and family ties, zucchini and zucchini have many differences.
- External signs. Unlike zucchini, zucchini has a large bush and long branched shoots. The color of the zucchini is not so colorful, its peel is pale green, sometimes almost white. A flower is smaller and more modestly colored than zucchini.
- Fruit. Zucchini has the same shape as a zucchini, but the latter has a larger fruit size - up to 40 cm. The peel is stiffer, so you have to remove it when cooking. The zucchini pulp is denser and coarser. Zucchini seeds are small, not ripening for a long time, so the ripped fruit does not need to be cleaned on time. The zucchini has the opposite - there are a lot of seeds, they are rough and must be removed when cooking.
- Growing conditions. Zucchini is very warm and photophilous, but zucchini can easily put up with a little shading.
- Ripening rate and fruiting period. Zucchini ripen almost a month earlier than zucchini. But zucchini can bear fruit longer, for example, later varieties are harvested at the end of September.
- Storage. Zucchini is a perishable vegetable. But the zucchini, thanks to the dense skin, can be stored for a long time, if all conditions are met.
- Productivity Everyone knows that zucchini is a fruitful vegetable. But zucchini, even despite the small size of the fruit, is almost 2 times more productive.
Zucchini and zucchini - what are the similarities and differences - video
Popular varieties
The popularity of zucchini aroused interest from breeders. Many varieties with different characteristics and colors were born. Let's consider some of them.
Tsukesh
It is admitted to cultivation in the Central, Middle Volga and Far Eastern regions. Recommended for spring film greenhouses. Technical ripeness of the fruit reaches 51 days after seed germination. The bush has no side shoots. The main lash is short. A large dark green strongly dissected leaf has a five-lobed shape. The fruit is cylindrical in shape, up to 40 cm long. The average weight is 890 g. The skin is thin, smooth, dark green with light green dots. The pulp is white, juicy, has excellent taste. Productivity is good - up to 12 kg from 1 m². Gray rot is affected to a moderate degree.
Zucchini Tsukesh - an early ripening popular variety
The new variety of Tsukesh zucchini is distinguished by its bushiness and this is exactly what I like. I don’t have a lot of land and each piece is worth its weight in gold, so the appearance of this variety allows you to collect a significant area of the garden.
Pomidorchik
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Ebony
In 2007, he was included in the State Register for the North Caucasian and Far Eastern regions. The growing season is short - 43 days. The bush is compact, with small strongly dissected leaves. The surface of the plate is spotty, with slight pubescence. The fruit is of medium length, cylindrical in shape with a small diameter. The skin is dark green with diffuse spotting. Weight from 400 to 900 g. Taste excellent. Productivity is good - 464 - 777 kg / ha. Has relative resistance to lower temperatures.
Zucchini Ebony has excellent taste
The black woman is dark green, glossy, the fruit is aligned, elongated, the taste is the best of all that I have tried in appearance, it looks like an Aeronaut, but not so large
amplex
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Zolotinka
In 2010, it was admitted to cultivation in all regions of the country. Recommended for open ground in personal subsidiary plots. It bears fruiting on 40 - 45 days after emergence of seedlings. The plant is medium-ply, with strongly dissected leaves of medium size. The surface of the plate is dark green, with a weak spotting. The fruit is in the shape of a cylinder, with medium or strong ribbing. The skin is yellow, there are small dots. The pulp is tender, dense, tastes slightly sweetish. The mass of the fetus is from 700 g to 1 kg. Productivity 5.2 kg / m².
Zucchini Zolotinka due to its dense peel is well stored
I have grown this variety several times. Productivity is really very good. But I can’t say this about disease resistance. Much more often affected by rot compared with dark green zucchini.
masko4
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Tiger cub
The year of inclusion in the State Register of 2008, admitted to cultivation in all regions. It is recommended for cultivation in personal subsidiary plots. From the germination stage to fruiting, 60 to 65 days pass. The plant is a slightly branched bush with small strongly dissected leaves. The fruit is long, curved, cylindrical in shape. The surface is ribbed, the color is characterized by the alternation of dark green and light green stripes and strong diffuse spotting. The pulp is dense, tender, has a pleasant light cream color. The mass of the ripe fruit is from 720 g to 1.2 kg. Productivity 5.7 - 7.4 kg / ha. It is characterized by drought tolerance.
Zucchini Tiger cub - drought tolerant variety
Zucchini is only for food, like Tiger cub and Murzilka. I plant in 2 leaky barrels 2 bushes each, but preferably 1 bush each, as they crush each other
Galas
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Birdhouse
It is allowed before cultivation in the Central and Volga-Vyatka region in 2009. Recommended for personal subsidiary plots. The period from full germination to technical ripeness is 46 - 57 days. The plant is bushy, compact. The leaves are medium, slightly dissected. Having reached technical ripeness, the fetus acquires a curved pear-shaped shape. The surface is slightly ribbed, green, decorated with a speckled pattern. The pulp is medium density, tender, with excellent taste. The weight of the fetus is from 700 g to 1.1 kg. Productivity is higher than standard grades - 580 - 735 kg / ha. It is characterized by drought and cold resistance.
Zucchini Skvorushka withstands cold snap and dry periods
Sowed Squash this year - some kind of horror. Not just NOT soft, but I didn’t really have time to blossom, but the skin was already wooden. And I planted it about 3 years ago - it was kind of softer.
MurziK
//chudo-ogorod.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=63&start=20&t=633
Aeronaut
The access regions are Central, Volga-Vyatka, North-West, Lower Volga, Ural, Far East, East Siberian. Year of entry in the State Register 1987. From full germination to the collection period, 46 days pass. A compact bush plant with a short main shoot and a few lashes. The fruit is cylindrical with a smooth surface of dark green color. There is a drawing in the form of small dots of light green color. The flesh is crispy, dense, juicy, tender, whitish-yellow. Taste is noted as good. The weight of the fetus is 1.3 kg. Productivity 7 kg with 1 m². Resistance to viral diseases is strong, to powdery mildew is above average. It has excellent transportability.
Zucchini Aeronaut appreciated for disease resistance
In general, the Aeronaut liked the most - they grew earlier than anyone else, very productive and tasty.
Yew
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Zucchini planting
Zucchini can be grown in two ways - seedlings and seeds. Each of them has its own characteristics.
Planting seedlings
A tender and heat-loving culture in regions of risky farming is best grown by seedlings. But it’s better not to rush into seedlings, especially if you live in regions with a cold climate. As a rule, sowing is carried out in the middle or end of April, hoping that a transplant into the soil should take place in 25 - 30 days.
Zucchini seeds do not lose their ability to germinate for 10 years. But the highest quality are 2 - 3-year-olds.
2 - 3 year old seeds have good germination
Seedlings on the windowsill
Before planting, treat the seeds to improve their germination. But first sort them out by separating the empty seeds. Then warm the selected material. The easiest way is to wrap the seeds in a cotton cloth and put on a central heating battery, let it lie there for 3 days. But you can hold them for 4-6 hours at a temperature of 50-60 ° C in the oven.
In my opinion, this method is more dubious. There is a risk of simply frying them or not warming them enough, because not every oven accurately shows the desired temperature.
And then you need to tinker a bit, but the result is worth it.
- To disinfect the seeds, hold for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then rinse.
- The next day the seeds will spend in a solution of boric acid (0.002%). This procedure will increase germination, increase initial growth, increase yield by 10 - 20%. You can purchase various growth stimulators in a specialized store, they also give excellent results.
- Then follows hardening. Leave the seeds wrapped in moist tissue first at room temperature for 6 hours. Then for 1.5 days place on the lower shelf of the refrigerator.
In order for seeds to please with friendly seedlings, they must be processed before sowing
While the seeds are being processed, do not waste time in vain, but prepare everything you need for sowing. Prepare the soil mixture yourself by mixing in equal proportions turf soil, humus, coarse sand and peat with low acidity. Do not forget to disinfect the prepared composition by spitting with a potassium permanganate light pink color. If you don’t have the right components at hand, you can buy seedling soil at a flower shop, but you should still add sand to it.
It is advisable to plant seeds in separate containers, as delicate roots can be damaged during a dive. You can prepare any container at your fingertips - disposable cups (but not the smallest ones), seedlings, peat cups or special tablets for planting, after soaking them in water.
Landing and care
- Fill the container with the prepared land mixture. Spill liberally and sow 1 to 2 seeds in each container. Close to a depth of no more than 3 cm. Put the seeds flat.
- Cover the cups with a plastic bag and place in the brightest place. For normal germination, seeds need a temperature in the range of 20 - 22 ° C.
- After 5 days, the seeds will germinate. When all the seedlings come out, the bag can be removed so that the seedlings do not suffer from high humidity.
- To avoid stretching seedlings the first 10 days after emergence of seedlings, lower the temperature - during the day from 15 to 18 ° C, at night from 12 to 15 ° C. Humidity is not lower than 60%, but not higher than 80%.
- Water moderate, keeping the soil moist, but do not flood. Water only with warm water (25 ° C)!
- Lighting should be maximized so that seedlings do not stretch.
Sowing seeds for seedlings - video
I grow seedlings on the south window. The Crimean sun shines brightly, therefore I always shade seedlings at noon. Refracting in the window glass, the rays can lead to the withering of delicate plants and overdrying of the soil.
During seedling growth, feed it twice. The first time the seedlings will turn 8 - 10 days, the second - after 2 weeks. Complex fertilizers are usually used as top dressing. You can prepare a solution of superphosphate - 2 g per 1 liter of water.
Seedlings in the greenhouse or under the film
If you follow all the above rules, then in a greenhouse or under a film, you can grow strong seedlings in glasses. Of course, you have to tinker, especially on hot days. So that the seedlings do not block, it will be necessary to open the shelters, but do this only from the leeward side. But then such seedlings will be more seasoned than indoor.
Transplanting seedlings into the ground
The time for transplanting seedlings to an open bed should coincide with suitable weather conditions. Delicate seedlings can not stand the cold, so the earth should be warmed up to 12 ° C at a depth of 10 cm. Such weather comes in late May - early June. Do not forget to harden home seedlings 1.5 to 2 weeks before transplanting into the soil, taking it out onto the street and gradually increasing the time spent in the air.
If you are guided by folk signs, then the timing of planting seedlings is determined by flowering dandelions.
The zucchini beds are prepared in a special way. Choose the most illuminated area, since the plant must be provided with the maximum amount of heat and light. Thanks to this, the seedlings quickly start to grow and surpass even fast-growing zucchini.
- Italian zucchini prefers loams with low or neutral acidity, the main advantage of which is fertility and good friability. In the fall, the chosen place is cleaned of the remains of vegetation. Outlines the direction of the beds - from south to north. Landing pattern - 70/70 cm.
- According to the planned scheme, holes are dug with a depth of 25-30 cm and a width of 40/40 cm. At the bottom of the hole, collected plant residues are laid - weed grass, tops, fallen leaves, twigs. Do not use leftover diseased plants! Such a substrate during decomposition will not only warm the root system, but will also become an additional source of nutrients.
- In the spring, when favorable conditions are formed for transplanting seedlings into the ground, take 1 tbsp. l double superphosphate, urea, potassium sulfate (you can without it), a half-liter jar of wood ash. Everything is well mixed with the ground and filled the pits. It turns out a small mound.
- The middle of the knoll is shed with a warm solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per bucket of water), the earth will settle, and seedlings are planted in a creamy mass. The transplantation is carried out by transshipment so as not to damage the fragile roots.
- After covering the landing film. But under the film, condensation often collects and humidity rises. For seedlings, this is disastrous, so airing regularly, lifting the film in the warm time of the day.
Transplanting seedlings in the open ground - video
I make it a little easier in my opinion. To close the beds you need a lot of film. Therefore, I plant seedlings under 6-liter plastic bottles from under the water, having previously cut their bottom. I immerse each bottle in the ground while it’s wet it is very easy to do. To air the seedlings, I just remove the cap. When the young plant takes root and gets stronger, I remove the bottle.
Instead of covering material, plastic bottles can be used.
In regions with severe weather conditions or in areas with heavy clay soil, it is recommended to plant zucchini in high beds. In such structures, the soil warms up faster, which means zucchini will feel comfortable.
Planting seeds in the ground
This method of landing is quite suitable for the southern regions and for the Midland.
- For growing zucchini by sowing seeds, select a site according to the same criteria as for planting in a seedling method. But prepare the ground a little differently. Of course, it is best to do this in advance - in the fall.
- Dig the pre-cleared earth to the depth of the shovel bayonet, while simultaneously adding nutrients per 1 m² - 5 kg of organics, 25-30 g of potassium sulfate and double superphosphate each.
In the fall, dig in nutrients
- Dig the soil a week before planting again, adding 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m².
- Smooth the surface of the plot with a rake so that there are no lumps.
In the spring, before landing, level the site
Seeds before planting undergo the processing described above, but before planting them in the ground, they need to be allowed to hatch in order to accelerate the process of seedling emergence. To do this, wrap the treated seeds in a damp cloth, preferably gauze, and leave for a couple of days at room temperature. Be sure to control so that the seeds do not outgrow. You need to plant it in the ground as soon as a tiny green sprout appears from the nose of the seed. Overgrown seeds, in which the rudiments of the cotyledonous leaves appear, are less developed.
Hatching seeds sprout faster
Sowing seeds on an open bed begins from the end of May to the beginning of June, when the ground is sufficiently warmed up. The landing pattern is the same.
Step-by-step process
- Add a handful of humus and ash to the dug hole, mix well with the ground and spill with water.
- Up to 2 seeds can be put in one hole.
- The depth of the seed touched the soil depends on its density. In loose soil, a seed can be deepened to 5 - 6 cm. If the soil is dense, heavy, then planting is done to a shallower depth - up to 4 cm.
- After planting, each pit must be mulched with dry earth so that moisture evaporates more slowly.
In loose soils, you can plant a seed deeper, in dense - on the contrary, it is not recommended to deepen
When choosing a site for planting seedlings or seeds, do not forget about crop rotation. Good predecessors are:
- cabbage;
- solanaceous;
- peas.
But after pumpkin planting is not recommended, since the soil accumulates diseases that will threaten zucchini.
Zucchini Care
Italian zucchini is not a very whimsical plant, but needs good moisture.
Transplant Seedling Care
Zucchini is a moisture-loving vegetable, so watering should be timely. Do not let the soil dry under the bush, otherwise the zucchini will throw off the ovaries. But it’s not worth it to fill the earth, roots lacking access to oxygen can begin to rot.
In each region, the irrigation regime varies depending on the precipitation and the number of sunny days, but the standard irrigation is carried out once every 5 days. During fruiting, it increases - 1 time after 3 days. The norm of water under the bush is 10 - 12 liters.
Water only with warm water. Try so that moisture does not get on the leaves and ovary, so pour under the root. It is advisable to carry out the procedure early in the morning.
Pour zucchini only with warm water under the root
The first top dressing is carried out 2 weeks after transplantation. Complex mineral fertilizers are used, which are applied strictly under the root after preliminary wetting. Very responsive zucchini to organics. A solution of mullein 1/10 or chicken droppings 1/20 will be very helpful during flowering. But if there is no such fertilizer, wood ash will help out. During the formation of fruits, zucchini needs phosphorus-potassium fertilizing. The working solution is prepared according to the instructions.
Keep beds with Italian zucchini clean. Weeding and loosening after watering are the rules of care, which should not be neglected. And do not forget about the beneficial properties of mulch. It will help to maintain a normal moisture level in the soil and protect the roots from overheating.
Zucchini loves clean beds
Caring for Zucchini from Seeds
When shoots appear, the strongest plant should be left in the hole. Weak should be cut or plucked. If you try to pull out, do it carefully so as not to damage the roots of the remaining seedling. A month after planting the seeds, fertilizing is applied to the soil - 40 g of complex mineral fertilizer dissolved in 10 l of water. Otherwise, care is carried out in the same way as for plants grown from seedlings.
General care rules
Whatever methods the zucchini has been planted, there are general rules for caring for it.
- Zucchini yield depends on the work of pollinating insects - bees, bumblebees. To attract them, prepare a weak solution of honey (1 tsp. Dissolve in a glass of water) and spray the flowering bushes of the plant early in the morning. With insufficient pollination, the ovary turns yellow, dries and falls. This often happens with high humidity, when pollen sticks together or in very hot weather - pollen loses its ability to fertilize. In conditions when insects do not fly, you can conduct the pollination process manually. Cut the male flower and, cutting or bending its petals, apply pollen to the pistil of the female flower. One male flower is enough for pollination of 2 - 3 female.
Sometimes zucchini has to be pollinated manually
- Despite the fact that zucchini grows compactly, by the middle of the growing season a large leaf mass forms on the plant. It interferes with the normal process of airing the middle of the bush and pollination, does not allow sunlight to heat the soil. To improve lighting, heating and ventilation, remove 2 to 3 sheets from the middle. In addition, it is necessary to constantly cut off the lower leaves that lie on the ground and prevent the fruits from developing.
- If the fruits come into contact with damp earth, they may begin to rot and mold. To prevent this, a piece of plywood or a small board placed under the fruit will help.
Harvesting and storage
To appreciate the taste of zucchini, they need to be collected on time. Fruits that have reached 10 or 15 cm in size are the most delicious. They have the most delicate pulp, and their peel is so thin that it can be eaten.
A feature of zucchini is the fact that if you do not harvest in time, new fruits will not be tied.
As a rule, ripe fruits are removed every week. But in the midst of summer this has to be done much more often. Cut the zucchini with the stem, the longer it turns out, the longer the vegetable can be stored.
Zucchini must be collected on time
For storage, select only whole fruits, the peel of which does not have signs of mechanical or other lesions. Early ripe varieties are usually eaten immediately. But varieties with a dense skin (Squorushka, Zolotinka) can be stored almost all winter, laid out in one layer. The main thing is that they do not touch each other. Storage conditions:
- temperature from 3 to 10 ° C;
- humidity 60 - 70%;
- constant ventilation of the room.
The storage location should not be exposed to light. Therefore, if the fruits are in a box on the balcony, they must be covered with a dense cloth.
Zucchini can be stored in the refrigerator by placing them in perforated bags. So they lie a month. The vegetable is perfectly preserved in frozen form. Sliced in circles or cubes and packed in dense plastic bags, the fruits can safely lie until the next harvest. And zucchini billets are the best way to diversify the winter diet.
Gourmets will appreciate the taste of canned zucchini
Diseases and pests characteristic of zucchini
If you properly meet the conditions of planting and take into account crop rotation, then a healthy crop is provided. But troubles with the weather and some care errors can lead to the spread of the diseases most characteristic of zucchini. If you recognize the disease in time and urgently apply control measures, nothing terrible will happen.
- Powdery Mildew This disease most often causes trouble for zucchini lovers. It first appears focally, in the form of small spots of white on the surface of the sheet plate. Then the spots merge and cover the entire surface, leading to drying and fragility of the sheet. Moving to neighboring leaves, powdery mildew oppresses the bush, flowering and the formation of ovaries ceases. The spread of mushroom infection contributes to damp, cool weather. Start the fight against the disease immediately:
- cut out all affected leaves and burn them;
- use drugs Topaz, Fundazole or Cineb;
- if necessary, re-treat after a week or two.
Powdery mildew affects leaf blades
- Floral and apical bacteriosis. The disease begins with flower pestles and ovaries that rot. Rot passes to the stems, then to the fruit. The upper part of the zucchini stops growing, but the lower part continues to develop further. As a result, the fetus is deformed, with a wrinkled and rotting tip. To combat the disease, the affected ovaries and fruits should be cut off, and the bush treated with 1% Bordeaux fluid.
Apex bacteriosis - the reason for the decline in productivity
- Root rot. It affects the plant at different stages of development. Most often, an ailment develops in a greenhouse. The fungus affects the root neck, stalk and roots of zucchini. Yellow spots of rot appear on them. The plant rapidly fades and dies. Root rot is accompanied by frequent changes in temperature and increased humidity. The diseased plant should be immediately removed from the garden and destroyed. The fight against decay must begin when processing seeds. For the purpose of prevention, the seed material is soaked for 6 hours in a 1% solution of Planriz. The same solution can be used to water seedlings with 3 to 4 true leaves.
Root rot leads to the death of the whole plant
In order to prevent diseases as rarely as possible, the beds with zucchini must take preventative measures:
- treat the soil correctly before planting;
- collect plant debris;
- follow the planting pattern - thickened beds are most often affected by diseases;
- observe the watering regime, especially with possible temperature differences;
- Do not overfeed zucchini with nitrogen fertilizers.
In addition to diseases, pests can annoy the plant. The most dangerous are the caterpillars of the scoop, which penetrate into the stem and feed there, as a result of which the plant dies. Troubles can bring aphid colonies and a sprout fly. To control pests, I use Fufanon. As a prophylaxis, the bushes are treated with horseradish infusion. To do this, grind the leaves or roots of the plant in a meat grinder, fill the tank by 1/3, and add the remaining volume with water. Insist hour and filter. Sprayed in the evening, so as not to burn the leaves.
The scoop caterpillar is dangerous because it infects the plant from the inside
Knowing the features of growing zucchini, even a novice gardener can get a decent harvest. And given the excellent fruiting of Italian zucchini, you can enjoy fresh vegetable all summer. And in the winter to prepare delicious sunsets. Some varieties, with proper storage conditions, can replenish the body's vitamin supply during the winter.
