Campsis is a liana native to North America and China. A plant of the Bignoniaceae family has become widespread among gardeners as a decorative flower because of its unpretentiousness and unique inflorescences. Another name for campsis is bignonia.
Campisis Description
A smooth branching stem can grow up to 15 m. Young shoots have a light green color, with age, the liana becomes stiff at the base, acquiring a more pronounced burgundy shade. Small internodes are found along the entire length of the plant. Of these, the aerial root system of the campsite originates, its petioles, which reach large sizes, 8-10 glossy leaves covered with vegetable wax appear on each.
The reverse side of the ellipsoid leaf has many veins along which there is a characteristic pubescence. The flowers are tubular, often orange-red, pink or yellow, an average of 5-8 pieces, do not smell.
The fruit is a hard pod elongated up to 8-10 cm, containing numerous brown seeds. The roots are well developed, grow both in depth and around the campsis, occupying a vast space.
Types and varieties of campsis creeper
There are several types and varieties of bignonia that are bred on the site.
| View | Description |
| Large flowered (Chinese) | A large deciduous or shrub vine with no aerial roots, branching abundantly and twisting around a support. Heat-loving, cold tolerance poorly. The leaves are elongated, pointed at the end, dark green, not pubescent, 6-8 cm in length. The flowers are large, up to 9 cm, painted in a rich orange-red hue with a golden tint. |
| Hybrid | A long, up to 8 m, liana with many flexible smooth branches. It is not afraid of frosts, high decorativeness is characteristic. The leaves are ovoid, rough, with serrated serrated edges, of a deep green hue, about 7-10 pieces on the petiole. Large tubular flowers, variegated petals, pink-yellow with a purple overflow. |
| Rooted | A branchy liana, numbing at the base, with numerous aerial roots and vines. Frost-resistant, able to survive up to -20 ° C. The leaves are rough, leathery, with a glossy sheen and pointed edges, gray-green. The flowers are medium, up to 7 cm long, pink-purple or scarlet with a golden tint. The species is widespread in the southern regions of Russia. |
| Flamenco | Perennial liana 2-5 m high, very branched, occupies a large space around. Oval-pointed leaves have many veins, 7-10 pieces on the petiole, the edges are serrated, located opposite each other. Petals are variegated, purplish-red, saturated orange hue. Frost-resistant grade. |
| Flava | Large deciduous liana up to 7 m tall. It has well-developed aerial roots that provide strong adhesion to the support. The leaves are bright green, 7-15 cm, with slightly wavy edges. Funnel-shaped flowers reach 5 cm in diameter, yellow-orange or red-gold with a crimson tint. Winter hardy. It can withstand frosts down to -20 ° C. |
When to plant campsis in the middle lane
Bignonia is resistant to cold and unexpected frost that does not last for a long time. Some varieties can withstand temperature drops of -20 ° C, but do not rush with planting in open ground. It best tolerates planting in the middle lane, in particular in the Moscow region, for this beginning-mid-May is suitable, when the soil has already warmed up enough and the probability of unforeseen frosts is minimal.
It is not necessary to plant a liana in a particularly hot period, it may not take root and die from dehydration. You should choose a day with moderate warm weather, without precipitation and strong wind.
Campsis planting outdoors
Since kampsis lives up to several decades, it can be planted in autumn or spring. It is noted that planting in mid-late September has a much better effect on the liana, because almost all conditions of its natural environment are observed: high levels of humidity of air and soil, warm weather, and natural rainfall. In order for the planting to be successful and the plant to take root quickly, the following must be done:
- A hole for bignonia needs to be dug up 1-2 weeks before disembarkation.
- Deepen no more than 40 cm, given the age and size of the seedling.
- The diameter of the pit should be 40-60 cm.
- Weed the space around the flower beds and thoroughly loosen the soil.
- Add mineral (nitrogenous, phosphoric or potash) fertilizers and peat, compost.
- If the soil is heavy and loamy, it is necessary to prepare a drainage layer of foam, broken brick, walnut and egg shells, which should be laid to the bottom.
- It is best to choose leafless cuttings for planting.
- Place the campsis in the center of the pit and add soil so that the root neck protrudes from the soil by 8-10 cm.
- During filling, the seedling must be gently shaken to fill the cavities.
- The roots of the plant should be located on the substrate, it will give more layering.
- Carefully compact the soil without damaging the root system, carefully water.
- Bignonia needs support, so it is necessary to provide a flower bed with a pole or a moss pillar.
Campsite Care
Campsis is unpretentious in care and does not require special gardening skills in handling, therefore, certain conditions must be adhered to so that the flower grows magnificent and delights the eye with its inflorescences.
| Parameter | Conditions |
| Location / Lighting | It is not recommended to place flower beds near the windows of residential premises, because the nectar of bignonia flowers attracts various insects, including bees, wasps and hornets. It is also worth considering the features of the root system: it is able to destroy stony buildings or a fence, so the campsis is planted on a small elevation. It is photophilous, but can grow in partial shade under a canopy. On the site for its cultivation, the south or southeast side is best suited. |
| Temperature | Heat-loving and frost-resistant, able to withstand frosts to -20 ... -25 ° C, however, with prolonged cold snap without special shelter it can die. It blooms and branches best in hot climates at + 20 ... +28 ° C. In areas with a particularly cold winter or frequent temperature changes, it does not take root well, stops flowering and soon dies. |
| Watering | Regular, especially thorough on hot days. If there is no rain for a long time, it is necessary to increase the frequency and spray leaves and petioles, avoiding contact with flowers. Bignonia is able to survive a short period of drought, but do not leave the plant without moisture, otherwise it will dry out and die. It is also necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate and is completely absorbed into the soil. In the absence of drainage, overflow channels can be made to prevent decay and infection of the campsis with harmful bacteria. |
| Top dressing | Virtually no need. If, when planting, the soil was mixed with organic matter (compost, humus, needles) and added peat, sand, ash, sawdust or a crumb of charcoal, then you can not worry about fertilizers. During the vegetative period and the beginning of flowering, use mineral complexes or universal dressings for garden plants. |
| The soil | Unpretentious, but better survives in enriched mineral substrates. Also, if bignonia turns yellow or fades, it is necessary to increase the nutritional value of the soil by adding peat, sand, ash, sawdust, needles, humus or compost. From time to time, you should carefully loosen the substrate, so that more oxygen penetrates the underground root system and weed through the area from weeds. |
| Pruning | Regular and thorough. In the spring, carefully remove dried and dead shoots, treating the sections with cinnamon. Subsequently, in their place will appear young, more lush and thick shoots. It is also necessary to remove faded buds and withered petioles. Cut off the diseased parts of the plant immediately. In late autumn, before wintering, make sure that the campis does not go beyond the allotted territory for it, cutting off excess branches. |
| Wintering | It is better to start the preparation from the end of September, before the onset of severe frosts. Cover the soil and external roots with a layer of dry foliage, humus, needles, sawdust and spruce branches. Wrap the stem together with vines with a dense layer of plastic film or lutrasil. You can also cover the top with the floor without damaging the shoots. If it is possible to bend the branches of the liana to the soil, you can remove the support and fill the bignonia with fallen leaves, spruce branches. |
Campsis propagation
Bignonia is usually propagated in two ways: generatively and vegetatively. Both methods are actively used by gardeners, depending on the conditions and time of the year. So, cuttings are best done in June:
- First, examine the adult campsis and select cuttings with 2-4 healthy leaves from the central part of the plant.
- Treat the bottom of the shoot with a root forming solution.
- Choose a shaded space with loose enriched soil. Add some peat and sand to the ground.
- To cuttings quickly took root and began to grow actively, you can use Maximarin.
- Loosen the area around the young campsis with freshly cut grass or tree bark.
If the stalk is numb, it must be cut off in early spring, March-April, and appropriate planting measures should be carried out.
Another way - layering:
- Cut off shoots that are very close to the ground or lying on it with a disinfected knife.
- Moisten the soil thoroughly and dig out the landing pit, depending on the size of the shoot, about a third of the lay should be underground.
- Place the shoot in peaty soil, providing it with drainage.
- The root system will begin to form quickly enough and by the next spring campsis can be transplanted to a selected area in the open ground.
Thanks to the well-developed long root system, another method is distinguished - root propagation:
- Elevated roots should be carefully examined, on them from time to time shoots appear.
- Prior to the moment of active growth and development of the shoot, it must be cut off along with a portion of the root system. If it is too long, then you can separate the extra branches.
- On the site, select a flower bed with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage.
- Dig a landing pit so that the roots are completely underground.
- Thoroughly water and treat the soil with mineral fertilizers, so the sprout adapts faster and will grow.
Bignonia seeds can be purchased at the store or collected manually from ripened fruits. They are bred for seedlings with the beginning of spring.
- Select several individual containers with loose nutrient-rich soil.
- Do not deepen deeply (about 0.5 cm) and carefully water the planted seeds.
- Organize greenhouse conditions: maintain the temperature not lower than + 23 ... +25 ° C, place the pots in a well-lit place without drafts and regularly water. The film can not be used.
- After about 1 month, the first shoots will appear. Do not change the sprouts.
- When the shoots get stronger and 5-6 healthy leaves grow on them, the campsis can be transplanted into the open ground.
Mr. Dachnik explains: why campsis does not bloom
Many gardeners face this problem. If bignonia was removed from seeds, then the plant will bloom for the first time only after 5-6 years, so it is much more productive to propagate it vegetatively.
When cherenkovaniyu liana starts buds for 3-4 years. However, the development process can be accelerated by regularly fertilizing and maintaining the nutritional value of the substrate.
Another reason for the lack of flowering can be various diseases or infections resulting from improper care or infection from other plants. Pest insects, depleting the vitality of bignonia, also negatively affect not only its flowering, but also threaten the full growth of the vine.
In addition, improper care, namely a too low temperature, makes flowering impossible. It is important to protect the campsis from spring and autumn frosts, covering it with a special flooring. Frequent drafts hinder the ripening of buds; later, if they are not prevented, the plant may become ill. Do not wait for the bloom of bignonia in regions with a cold climate, where the air does not warm up by more than +20 ° C.
Campsis pests and diseases
Bignonia is characterized by high resistance to various infections and pests. The plant may not show signs of infection for a long time, but if the campsis is still ill, appropriate measures must be taken.
| Manifestation | Cause | Elimination method |
| Softening the sheet plate, it becomes translucent. Petioles and stems turn black. | Bacterial (wet) rot. It occurs due to stagnation of water or infection. | Treat with a solution of water and tar soap, cut off all the rotten areas and renew the soil. Reduce the frequency of watering by 2 times, organize improved drainage. |
| Brown and gray spots with a reddish-brown center, cavities and yellowness on the campsis. | Fungal affection. | Prepare solutions:
Also allowed the use of chemicals: Purebloom, Skor, Diskor, Keeper. |
| Leaves acquire a mosaic coloring, yellow spots and pronounced roughness. Fruits do not appear, flowering may stop. | Viral infection. | Remove the affected sprouts, treat with special fertilizers based on copper. If the plant is completely damaged, it should be dug up together with an earthen lump so that the infection does not spread. |
| Greenish insects 0.5-1.5 cm, clinging buds, leaf plates and young shoots. Deformation of the sprouts occurs. | Aphid. | There are several ways to fight:
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